She came and sat down on my lounger, 'you want massage?'
'No thanks'
She gives my foot a wee squeeze (haha)
When you say no, they always look (or act) sad and then look around for their next target. Sometimes they will stay put for a bit, waiting for you to change your mind or just use the time to take a rest in the shade.
'Why not?', she questions.
I liked this. It's simple English but normally they're just like whatever, and move on.
'How much?' I ask her.
'50,000 for half an hour.'
'No, too much.'
'Not too much... how much you like?'
'30!' (50,000 is really not much at all but I always feel the need to haggle. Almost like their opening price is kinda them trying their luck.)
She gives me a playful slap like c'mon, 'Not 30, you give me better price.'
'It's 70 for a one hour massage! 30.'
'40.'
'30.'
'Ok, one hour is 70, half hour-35.'
She had a point. She sticks out her wee granny hand. I take it and shake it, we had a deal.
'Wait here. I get my coconut.'
Her wrinkly hands felt like they had sand on them but I guess they were just experienced. Is experienced a nice way to say old? They were old. Her coconut massage oil didn't make much difference but it was an ok massage. Supporting the locals! I've had a few Balinese massages on my trip, and they aren't shy. A bum massage is not so uncommon in their routines - one of the guys we are traveling with, Malcolm, got his bum squeezed by his male masseurs which surprised him a little bit. I don't think it went down too well. A tummy massage is also pretty standard - big circular movements which sounds strange but it's nice, and everyone likes a tummy rub. My friend Liz got her baps 'massaged' when she went for a massage in Ubud. We can't figure out if her masseur was just chancing her luck or if it was actually routine... Nyoman didn't bother. My breasts were left alone but I guess we were at the beach, or maybe it was the tan lines?
There is also some surf at Legian beach. I went with the Quiksilver surf school who charge $39 for one lesson (2.5 hrs) or $100 for 3. Although, for a lot cheaper, there is always a few guys hanging out on the beach who will rent out boards to you for an hour or two, or give you lessons. I think it would be about 50,000 rp for one hour hire. I'm not sure because I didn't actually hire one but if you don't like the price they ask for just move to the next stall. Depending on the time of day, there is often loads of surfers out so you can just sit and watch too if you're into that. The only bad thing I would say about the water is that there is quite a lot of rubbish floating around which is not very nice!
There will constantly be people coming up to you asking if you want to buy ice cream, fruit, bracelets... just the usual tourist beach business but then there's also guys offering tattoos, incense holders... there was a guy carrying around buddha statues today! They were pretty big ones too. I don't know, some people might like to pick up a Buddha after a sunbathing sesh. And then there's the make shift bars which involve guys sitting around on cool boxes playing guitar, and serving up Bintangs and drinks. Pretty sweet deal.
Oh yup, and Linda will probably find you. I talked to her the first time I was in Legian and she recognised me today. She went in a right huff when I didn't buy anything from her the last time. She was trying to fob off elephant incense holders on me today. I actually really liked them but not at her Linda prices. She has a hat with Linda written on it. You can't miss her. She is a charming woman though, with good chat. I bought some bracelets from her today but just don't waste her time. I only gave her chat the first time, and she didn't like that.
Legian beach is not the prettiest beach out there but you'll meet a few characters for sure. Good times.
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