Volcano city!

Our hosts in Kyoto recommended Aso- san for a visit so we made the trip there after a day trip in Hiroshima. Aso is one of the largest calderas in the world. It`s like a wee town in a big basin surrounded by mountains and trees. We didn`t realise it was goin to take so long so we were goin up the mountains in the dark, the driver had to walk down the platform and change the direction he was driving twice in order to get up this mountain, and of course we couldn`t see what was goin on outside! It felt like we were goin back on ourselves but somehow when changing seats he must have changed the tracks too.

It was a torch job from the station but luckily the hostel wasn`t too far away. It felt like a cabin in the woods, probably the least Japanese of our accomodation so far. We still had to change into slippers though!

We didn`t realise til morning how great a location we were in. The bus up to the top of the mountain took 30 mins. Most people then opted for the cable car but we walked it and soon we were peering into the bubbling volcano crater. Each time there was a breeze we could smell the sulphur. Pretty horrible because I could taste it too, ummm.

Bubblin' crater of Mt. Nakadake

Our reading of the area didn`t really prepare us for the size of the place. It was huuuuge, and so many different terrains- orange rocks, ash soil, rocks, patches of grass. It was ace.

Volcano bomb...

We started scrambling up the hill. It was all rocks but there was arrows pointing us in the right direction. I felt pretty nervous actually, just because I`ve not really walked up near any volcanoes before!! Each time we turned round the view got better...

Even at this point it had been a tough climb, 1270m to go!

The view at the top was unreal. 360... smokin crater in one direction, mountains in the other, wee caldera town and then more rocks to climb. We reached the peak of Nakadake and we were unsure what to do because the descent was roped off. The tourist info said the path was closed because the cable cars had been abandoned; our hostel owner too said it was officially closed but that we could still walk it if we liked. We were wary, I didn't really want to double back on ourselves but being so close to a bubbling crater I was a bit on edge, and it did look like quite a long descent into unknown ground... humm... anyways we soaked up the view while debating what to do for a while then 5 Japanese guys came down from the highest peak, Taradake, and after exchanging some konnichiwa's they continued down the roped off hill. Should we just follow? Yeahh, let's go!

The otherside of the smoking crater!

The path was very crumbly, so we carefully stepped over the No Trespassing tape and started our descent. It was exciting and fun, and I figured if we were stopped by any officials the Japanese guys would be able to talk to them haha.

Top of the world!

Pete has been on field trips before albiet not right next to a bubbling volcano, but I dunno, this guy could explode any moment, I felt uneasy and walking down next to a rusty, abandoned cable car station it was eeerie for sure but exciting!! The path was fine, not sure why it was closed exactly. There was no cable cars hanging in the sky so there was no danger in that sense. One of the look out points did pretty much look into the crater so needless to say we didn't stay at that observation point for long. The Japanese guys did so we passed them at this point and continued down, I kept checking behind me because for some reason I felt safer knowing there was other hikers coming down this 'closed' path.

My legs hurt more coming down then they did going up!! I was at times holding on to Pete and going down walking backwards, as in heels first. I've not really used going down hill muscles for an extended period of time. This was like a 1.5hr descent. I don't even know what the muscles are called, but continuously having to catch yourself, ouch my wee legs.

We finally arrived at a car park which marked the end of the trek although the train station back to Aso was 2km from here. We bought some drinks and prepared ourselves for more down hill walking. The 5 guys had their own car otherwise I'm sure we would have asked to share a ride or a taxi with them. We were pretty gutted because there was no space for us in their car! We started walking with our thumb out.

I think only one van passed us, and he didn't stop!! We saw him snake his way all the way down the hill so he was going in that direction anyway. He was bowing as he drove past hehe so polite. I guess he was in a hurry or something. Anyways the 5 Japanese guys stopped for us! They pulled over and just laughed and then opened up the boot so we were getting ready to climb into the boot but he got two of his pals to sit back there so we could sit in the back seats. They spoke very little English but we managed to get some chat. They were firemen and paramedics so I guess helpful people :-) they dropped us right at our hostel, and then asked if they could take a photo with us. It was ace. I love Japan.

Hai, cheesu!

Public baths part 2.

Other spots in Japan.

Kinosaki- took us like half a day to get here but its an onsen town. If you stay at one of the hotels here you get a bathrobe, and wooden slippers so you can go from one onsen to another. It was okay. I thought it would be amazing since it was all this wee town had. I think we were a bit keen and had too many soaks. Save them for after a day's hike. Try the crab while you're in town too!

Osaka Spa World- This place had like 4 different floors, and themed baths. Male, and female were seperate as always and the themes get rotated each month. The pool on the top floor is mixed. Excellent way to spend an evening. You could easily spend hours here.

Ibusuki sand baths- a bit of a drive from Kagoshima. Worth the visit for sure. You get to the changing room, undress, and just wear the kimono which they give you. Then you head outside with the slippers provided, and head down to the beach, you will see a bunch of heads poking out of the sand. There's people waiting to do the same, and bury you in the sand. The sand is really hot so its like an underground sauna. Sweat out all the impurities! They recommend max time of 20 minutes, thats how hot it gets. I think a girl fainted while we were there, ice packs etc. So be careful!

There's also like private bath places for couples, and families.

There's public baths in most towns.

Kizakura Kappa Country sake brewery

Fushimi is an area in Kyoto which is known for sake breweries, and production. Noa recommended that we should check it out so we thought we would see what was happening after a visit to the Fushimi- Inari Taisha Shrine- also excellent, a 4 km walk up a mountain with thousands of tori gates. Amazing. At sunset, it can be quite eerie though.

We got out the train station and walked to where we thought it should be but couldn't find it so we asked a couple to point us in the right way. In typical Japanese fashion, they started walking us straight there. Such friendly, and helpful people. We got there and it looked like the place was shut so we were like oh, but then the couple were like no, its okay, and walked us all the way to the door and asked for a table for us.

It wasn't busy inside. Just a few business men drinking, and eating.

After re-reading the map we realised we were in the restaurant which we wanted to go to after the brewery. Worked out quite well for us.

The staff didn't speak English so a few of them walked past and some attempted to help us but eventually the supervisor came to try and help us. I used my phrase book to see if things would be easier-

Nani ga oishii desu ka? (What do you recommend?)

Pointing at the menu, we asked for some beer that was brewed in house, and recommendation of sake. The chief suggested a rack of sake. Cool.

Different stages/ strengths of sake

My first taste of sake, and it was from a brewery visit so happy with that. We then attempted to order food but that didn't really work, and the only food they had were kebabs so we continued drinking. Sake doesn't make you feel drunk but you can feel it in your head if that makes sense.

Good times.

The next day we had a sake party with Nao and Kaori. It kind of happened accidently. Kaori had just come back from the shop, and said that if we liked sake, there was one brand on offer at the shop so we were like cool, maybe we'll get some. Nao was debating whether to stock up on a few more bottles so when we went we picked up an extra one as well for him as a present, they were excellent hosts. Only condition was that they would have to drink with us!

Nao went out and bought some sashimi, and made it into a party. Even though we had already eating dinner he convinced us that you have to eat sashimi with sake.

Don't think they make a habit of partying with guests. Its not a party place at all. More like their own home.

I can't remember how to say 'cheers', only 'one more please!' haha okawari kurasaaaaai !

Public baths

We were staying in Kyoto, and our host, Nao, kept suggesting we visit a public bath to help relax. We put it off for a few days because all I knew about it was that you strip naked and sit in a bath with a bunch of other people. I was nervous.

Before we set off Nao warned us, 'watch out for the electric one!'. Electric, how does that work in water I wondered. 'Don't worry, its the best one.' he called as we left, hmm.

We followed his directions, and realised we had past it several times during the day. There's no huge signage or anything. There's a foyer area for shoes, and then a male and female door. The woman looking after the place, and collecting the money sits in the middle of these doors. I paid her and then went in and started getting undressed. She was watching telly but I was still felt very self conscious when I was getting undressed. Through the glass slide doors I could see steam rising, several wash stations with a bucket and tap, several bath tubs behind that. I had a long face cloth type thing which was good for keeping my privates, private.

I took a deep breathe, and thought f*ck it, let's just go. Pulled open the slide door, and the 3 woman that were in there didn't even look up. Nothing to worry about at all. I grabbed a stool, and bucket and picked a station which didn't intrude on anyones personal space too much but also so I could make sure I was doing things correctly. The main tubs aren't for cleaning yourself in, but rather for soaking in and relaxing so the purpose of these wash stations is to scrub yourself clean.

The locals really do scrub. Until they're like red raw some of them. The woman I was sat near was washing before I started, and was still at it when I got up to go to the baths. Its cute, the locals often have their own bucket which they take with their own toiletries, and toothbrush, hairbrush etc.

Ok, so I was ready. I think there was 5 baths altogether. I didn't pick the one closest to the washing stations but 3rd up. Popped my foot in, and got this tingling sensation. It was hot, hotter than I would normally have my bath but I just eased myself in. Then I felt like these kinda like vibrations which would make my muscles wobble. Of course, I jumped straight into the electric one!!! I didn't want to seem like the silly foreigner so I just sat there and soaked it up for like 5minutes before coming back out... It was actually ok when I was side on, ie when the zaps were on my side but when I turned and it was on my tummy, it was too much. It felt nice on my back, but the tummy was too much.

Next I tried just the hot bath, which was nice. Next to that was the very hot one. It took me a while to get into it because it was so hot. I couldn't really stay in it for too long because it was that hot. There was a bubbling one which I thought I would save for later, and a green one which a lady was already in so I choose the last one which was ICE cold. Dipped my toes in there, and then sat in slowly. Tried the green, herbal one, as soon as it was free. Nice, tingly but in a herbs kinda way not electric shocks way. Then I went back in the cold one- not sure if that's good for my body but it feels good to go from one extreme to the other. Then bubbles where another lady was but it was the biggest one so I joined her. She tried to chat to me but I can't speak Japanese so just smiled and told her 'Scottorando'. (Scottish) I really need to learn some Japanese, they are such friendly people.

After you've had enough of that you get out and wash yourself again. I don't take as long as the first time but still have a scrub because of the baths that other people have been in. When I went through the slide doors, I didn't care at all if the woman was watching tv or not. I was so relaxed, and felt kinda comfortable with my body. I'm never one for walking around a changing room naked but I felt good about myself.

We spent the next 3 weeks traveling West of Japan to Kagoshima and eventually back to Tokyo. I will write up about others we visited, including several onsen (natural hot springs), spa visit, and being buried into a sand bath...

STAY at Roujiya Guesthouse, Kyoto

Indochina

Planning a trip

Watch this space ...